Madam C. J. Walker was born Sarah Breedlove in 1867 to oldsters who had been enslaved. She spent years as a struggling washerwoman however later achieved fame and fortune by making a hair care line for black girls. Walker was a proficient promoter who often varied the story of how she got here up together with her merchandise, however we all know she was impressed by her personal hair loss and a need to serve the wants of different African American girls.
Walker’s personal hair loss prompted Walker to hunt a remedy
Within the 1890s, Walker started to lose her hair. Her work as a laundress likely contributed to this drawback, because it uncovered her to harsh lye cleaning soap, grime and sizzling steam. But she was removed from the one black lady to expertise hair loss on the time. Many families lived with out indoor plumbing, so common shampooing wasn’t potential and issues like lice and pollution went untreated. Insufficient vitamin additionally made it tough to take care of wholesome hair.
As well as, most of the merchandise utilized by black girls, comparable to a preparation made with ox marrow, likely damaged hair and scalps. Some girls wore head wraps to cover their bald patches, however Walker did not need to observe that path. For one factor, such apparel would mark her lower social status at a time when she sought to raise herself. Plus, it was pure to need a full head of wholesome hair. So she as an alternative embarked upon a seek for a remedy for her hair loss.
READ MORE: Madam C.J. Walker and 9 Black Inventors Who Changed Your Life
A product made by one other black lady proved useful
Walker was residing in Saint Louis when she started attempting to unravel her hair loss points. Her brothers labored as barbers within the metropolis, which meant she might flip to them for some hair care know-how. Nevertheless, they weren’t consultants on girls’s hair and scalp illnesses, so she additionally tried out house cures. As well as, she drew on her expertise as a washerwoman and what she had realized concerning the properties of cleaners like lye cleaning soap.
Merchandise she might purchase had been one other useful resource for Walker, although on the time few objects had been tailor-made to the curls and texture of black girls’s hair. However Annie Turnbo’s Poro line of hair care was completely different. Turnbo was a black lady who’d arrived in Saint Louis forward of the 1904 World’s Truthful, the place she would promote her hair care merchandise and strategies. Round 1903, Walker started to make use of Turnbo’s merchandise just like the Nice Fantastic Hair Grower. Walker’s hair issues apparently benefited from this care and she or he ended up changing into a Poro gross sales agent.

A tin for Madame C.J. Walker’s Fantastic Hair Grower
Picture: Assortment of the Smithsonian Nationwide Museum of African American Historical past and Tradition, Reward from Daybreak Simon Spears and Alvin Spears, Sr.
Walker ultimately got here up together with her personal line of merchandise
In 1905, Walker headed to Denver to promote Poro merchandise and continued to pursue her personal hair care options. She grew to become a prepare dinner for pharmacist Edmund L. Scholtz, who could have helped her perceive the chemistry of such merchandise.
In 1906, she married Charles Joseph Walker and started to name herself Madam C. J. Walker, a reputation she held onto after the wedding had ended. By this time, she had developed her personal method to heal scalps and spur hair development. Walker stopped working for Turnbo and the Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Firm began promoting Madam C. J. Walker’s Fantastic Hair Grower in 1906. Substances included precipitated sulfur, copper sulfate, beeswax, petrolatum (like petroleum jelly), coconut oil and a violet extract fragrance to cowl the sulfurous scent.
Walker once explained the method of her hair grower got here to her in a dream: “God answered my prayer, for one night I had a dream, and in that dream a big black man appeared to me and told me what to mix up for my hair. Some of the remedy was grown in Africa, but I sent for it, mixed it, put it on my scalp, and in a few weeks my hair was coming in faster than it had ever fallen out. I tried it on my friends; it helped them. I made up my mind I would begin to sell it.”
But Walker could have merely tailored her former employer’s method. Her creation was known as Madam Walker’s Fantastic Hair Grower, shut the title of Turnbo’s Fantastic Hair Grower, and each merchandise contained sulfur, used to deal with dandruff and different scalp situations. Turnbo was aggrieved sufficient to advertise that clients ought to “beware of imitations,” however in any other case there was little she might do. As A’Lelia Bundles, Walker’s great-great-granddaughter and biographer, noted: “If you look at medical journals, this mixture of petrolatum and sulfur had been around for a hundred years.… neither of these women really created this recipe.”
She needed her merchandise to learn black girls, not change them
Alongside together with her hair grower, Walker’s early merchandise included Glossine (a urgent oil) and a vegetable shampoo. She urged purchasers to shampoo extra usually and to observe her “Walker System,” utilizing the hair grower, oil and sizzling combs, to provide more healthy hair. Nevertheless, although she popularized sizzling combs that straightened hair, Walker’s purpose wasn’t to change the looks of black girls’s hair.
“Let me correct the erroneous impression held by some that I claim to straighten hair,” Walker once stated. “I deplore such an impression because I have always held myself out as a hair culturist. I grow hair.” The Walker product line grew to incorporate lotions and soaps, however Walker all the time stayed centered on the well being of her purchasers’ hair and serving to girls take delight in themselves and their look.
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